Taurua Varua – Bora Bora’s Unique Cultural Ceremony

UPDATE : TAURUA VARUA – 2016

Read in conjunction with the original report – see below – to have an understanding of & the history & background to this fascinating event.

 

1st NIGHT OF CELEBRATORY COMPETITION – FAANUI

After days of persistent rain the sudden glorious sunset over the shimmering waters directly across to Faanui Temple augured well for the night that lay ahead.

All roads led to the Temple; on every pathway strolling towards the Temple, Tahitians dressed in colourful traditional mumus (long Tahitain dress), their men in shirts with equally colourful Tahitian motifs & all adorned in simply magnificent tiare Tahiti shoulder leis & floral head leis to match. Some carried simply their parahiraa – a small hand-made wooden seat on which the singers of himene. The singing tonight would be uniquely beautiful voices with not a musical instrument in sight, for tonight would mark the start of the Taurua Varua, a celebratory competition of himene & orero unique to Bora Bora & running for 3 consecutive Sunday nights – right through to 6am on Monday!

I can only start this report re-quoting Henri Lebeau’s reflection on the himene in 1911:

“Words have never succeeded in conveying the impression made by this music. Some have said that it was like an ocean wave coming in with growing strength as the voices increased in intensity, breaking and rolling and bounding and then the dying down and disappearing in a long, sustained note. The women’s voices carried the melody while the men provided a deep, rhythmic counterpoint, one of them with a great voice sometimes throwing out cries and appeals. All the people rocked back and forth as they sang, many with their eyes shut, entirely lost in the music.” 

After delving into the history of this fascinating celebration in my report last year (see below) I’ll cover the 3 nights for this year with a photographic report for each of the 3 gatherings with a final overall coverage following the last night of competition.

FIRST DAY OF COMPETITION – Faanui Temple, 10the January, 2016.

Participants gather before the judges, loosening their vocal cords in songs of joy whilst awaiting the start of the festivities. There were over 500 singers representing 6 distinct district groups:

taurua-varua-2016

A magnificent display reflecting the abundance of nature fronted the judges’ panel:

bora-abundance

Some of those present who gave their upmost on the evening:

himene-2016

bora-singing

The future is in good hands:

bora's-future

himene-dancing

From the Official Stand, the Pastor of Faanui & Anau:

official-himene

I found the himene to be of great quality & appreciated the 3 Aitos (oreros). I am greatly looking forward to the ensuing competition ………………… see you there!

 

2nd NIGHT OF CELEBRATORY COMPETITION – ANAU

Tonight we would gather in the annex to the Protestant Temple at Anau, a district of Bora Bora made famous for, amongst other things, being the birthplace of Tarita Teriipaia who played opposite Marlon Brando in “Mutiny On The Bounty” before she in turn married the famous actor & together they had 2 children.

Tonight’s celebrations would start just after 5pm & end at 6am the following morning! A traditional dinner accompanied by Ori Tahiti – the famous Tahitian tamure (dance) – for over 400 in the annex stunningly decorated with plaited niau (coconut leaves) & adorned in tropical flowers of every description & colour – there is no limit to the imagination & creativity of the Polynesians.

Shortly thereafter participants would gather in the large hall alongside the Temple – itself another marvel of Polynesian decoration with the walls adorned with magnificent hand-made tifaifai (Tahitian quilt) & an impressive array of hand-made hats fashioned from local foliage. The judges & dignitaries would assemble here before the himenes (local Tahitian chants) would start. I was struck by the fact that this was a tradition that has endured for hundreds of years.

Let the photos take you there:

The setting in Anau:

Anau Temple

anau's-otemanu

The judge’s bench fronted by a magnificent display of local produce – a symbol of abundance, of fertility, of continuity:

anau-fruit

Participants gather for a light-hearted introduction to the evening overseen by the head judge:

anau-taurua-varua-warm-up

Let the celebrations commence – a selection of images from the evening……

anau-himene-1

love-of-song

laughter-himene

happiest-chant

go-the-greens

green-himene

kids-himene

yellow-himene

himene-recital

great-himene-shot

faanui-himene

hot-himene

himene-from-faanui

faanui-chants

himene-from-anau

home-side

anau-goer

himene-at-anau

biggest-himene

himene-girl

himene-voice

favourite-himene-shot

strong-himene

close-up-himene

down-himene

high-himene

You could feel Anau’s pride in stagging tonight’s celebrations & it was justly rewarded by a greater number of participants putting great joy as well as polish into tonight’s presentations. A night of great quality rounded off by two Aitos (oreros).

Cant wait for the final & the announcement of this year’s winners next Sunday in Vaitape/Nunue!!!

Regretably I agitated an old sciatic problem whist gardening on Saturday & was immobile for Sunday’s final – BOO!!! All the more so because none other than  the President Of French Polynesia flew in specifically to witness the final of this unique event.

And the winners are……….Ierutalema – those in the black & white patterned attire with yellow leis won (& justifiably so).

Well worth catching the event next year if you are in Bora in January.

 

———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————–

ORIGINAL REPORT – 20 January, 2015

The Taurua Varua (Fete of the Spirit) is a celebratory competition of himene (formal Tahitian religious choral songs) & of Orero (ancient artistic forms of oral declaration) which takes place on Bora Bora in January each year. It is without doubt Bora Bora’s most important religious cultural event; as important a cultural event as the Heiva i Bora Bora.

Originally called the “Faa’ao Rua” (Together As One) the origins of the celebration trace back to the beginnings of Christianity in Bora Bora in early 1800’s from whence the event grew to be celebrated throughout much of French Polynesia. Today the ceremony is a celebration unique to Bora Bora.

To consider the Taurua Varua in an historical context one needs to trace back to the battle of Fei-Pi in Tahiti in 1815 where “the King’s Christians with guns triumphed over the traditionally armed followers of the Tahitian god Oro”. Mai, a warrior chief from Bora Bora who could read & write & had heard the Gospel preached, returned from the battle to Bora Bora. Although a certain Teaarefau was already proclaiming the gospel, the efforts of Mai & another chief, Tefaaora, who both set about preaching the Gospel widely from 1816, provided the catalyst for the island’s conversion to Christianity.

By 1818 Bora Bora had their first pastor, Pastor Orsmand. 1820 saw the arrival of Pastor Platt & the construction of Bora Bora’s first church, the Protestant Temple at Vaitape, well under-way. The missionaries were quick to see in the Tahitian’s love for & propensity to sing an effective opportunity through the inclusion of certain biblical references in the himene to build their number of adherents on the islands.

Mai & Tefaaora:

bora-chiefs

Derived from the English word ‘hymn’, the himene are strongly influenced in both verse & harmony by Protestant hymns. Himene are contrapuntal compositions in as many as six voices producing a powerful, pumping, unique & quite mesmorising sound sung with great gusto. In 1911, during a visit to Tahiti, Henri Lebeau reflected on the himene in these terms:

“Words have never succeeded in conveying the impression made by this music. Some have said that it was like an ocean wave coming in with growing strength as the voices increased in intensity, breaking and rolling and bounding and then the dying down and disappearing in a long, sustained note. The women’s voices carried the melody while the men provided a deep, rhythmic counterpoint, one of them with a great voice sometimes throwing out cries and appeals. All the people rocked back and forth as they sang, many with their eyes shut, entirely lost in the music.” 

Orero is a very powerful medium. Polynesian is an oral culture & the Polynesians have refined public speaking to an art-form. Bora Bora Insider describes it this way:

The Orero is an ancient artistic form of oral declaration once reserved for the few initiated into the art or for those for whom the art was considered an hereditary right most often taking into account Polynesian history & culture. As Polynesian is an oral culture the Orero played a fundamental role in Polynesian life over the centuries.

The form of orero used is the aito for a discourse which covers certain Biblical passages chosen to follow the theme of each himene.

Arriving at the Temple gives one a sense of the grandeur of what lies ahead:

temple-faanui

The women are dressed in traditional muumuu, the men in colourful Tahitian shirts, all participants in colours unique to their district – 6 districts of Bora Bora’s compete individually – giving a sense of unity to what is being undertaken. Their heads are adorned with intricately designed hand-made floral couronnes in a kaleidoscope of colour, their shoulders draped in colourful floral leis many of them tiare Tahiti, the Tahitian symbol of love & which sees a seductive perfume permeate throughout the surroundings. It’s a magnificent reflection on the abundance of nature.

Some members of certain groups await the start of the ceremony from the area where the spectacle will take place facing the jury behind which sit the commune’s dignitaries:

vaurua-waiiting

Once there’s movement – it’s an ocean of colour, a sea of joy, a river of celebration:

taurua-varua

Taurua Varou is conducted over 3 consecutive Sunday nights at the Protestant Tempe in each of the 3 principle parishes of Bora Bora – Faanui, Anau & Nunue (Vaitape).

The Himene can involve over 700 performers with 4 groups from Vaitape & a single group from each of Faanui & Anau – the later 2 can be up to 200 strong. Each group perform for around ½ hour singing 5 songs each a different himene art-form – a ‘ruau’ (ancient song), a ‘nota’ (adaptation of a song other than of a Tahitian origin, often French or English), a ‘tarava raromatai’ (song derived from the Leeward Islands), a ‘tarava rurutu’ (from the Australs’) & a ‘tarava rarotua’ (from Raratonga) – on each of the 3 nights. The Aito involves 4 participants from Vaitape, 3 from Faanui & 2 from Anau. They perform their orero uniquely in the ceremonies held in their own parish; each orero running for just under 30 minutes.

Tonight’s hosts – Faanui – in mauve & blue, followed by the other groups participating:

himene-faanui

himene-night

great-himine

himene-group

himine-girl

green-himene

green-faanui

himine-hagai

flora-himine

Did you miss the little girl peering from the dresses of those singing in the 5th photo above??? Wonderful moment for her.

Below, Himene Ierutalemia from Vaitape, 110 strong & the evening’s winners performing a ‘himene rarotua’. The children participating with the group were as young as 6 years of age; the oldest participant that evening, 80 years of age!

jerusalemi

himine-children

Some close-ups:

close-up

faanui-boom
vegetal-couronne

reflective-himine

himine-duo

jerusalemi-quartet

himine-joy

himine-colourful

young-&-old-himine

young-himine

Members of different groups watching the performance of others:

watching-himine

jerusalemi-hinie-observers

As can be seen from the photos, the himene is a vocal performance with only very limited use of any ‘instrument’ & then usually a ‘traditional’ Tahitian aid – eg, the hue (calabash) , or the pu (conch shell).

Look closely at the following photo to see a pu being played:

himine-pu

The orero performance offers exponents of this ancient art the opportunity to advance their skills. Open to both men & women their varied & powerful intonation is something to hear; their hand & body gesticulations something to behold.

Three Aito were selected from Faanui for tonight’s festivities, each surrounded by family & supporters who sing with great force for their champion in advance & following his performance:

orero-support

The night’s 3 champions:

bora-aito

aito-bora

aito-champion

bora-bora-aito

With well over 1000 in attendance the evening is a ‘marathon’ with a light snack available before the himene starts at 8pm. The himene continue to around mid-night & at their conclusion dinner is served before the orero starts. On occasion the orero is followed by a friendly conga dance with all present participating before a final snack at 6am on Monday morning marks the end of ceremonies.

This is an exceptional evening, an exceptional event – an evening of history & of culture, of fervour & passion, of tradition & artistry.

Highly recommended.

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